Pyrgi (Πυργί) is without doubt one of the most extraordinary villages in Greece. Founded in the Byzantine era and fortified by the Genoese in the 14th century, it is nicknamed "the Painted Village" for its incredible tradition of decorating every building facade with intricate geometric patterns called xistá (ξυστά). The xistá technique involves applying a layer of grey volcanic ash mixed with lime to the walls, then scratching the surface to reveal geometric patterns — chevrons, diamonds, spirals, and stylised flowers — in the contrasting white render beneath. The result is a village that looks like it was designed by an obsessive mathematician. Pyrgi is also one of the 24 "Mastichochoria" — the mastic-producing villages in southern Chios. Chios mastic (Chios PDO) is the resin of the Pistacia lentiscus tree, harvested here for over 2,500 years. Today you can buy mastic products in the village shops: gum, liqueur, sweets, soaps, and cosmetics. The village has a lovely main square with a medieval church (Agioi Apostoloi) that features xistá patterns even on its interior. Pyrgi has no beach but is just 4 km from Mavra Volia and about 2 km from Komi beach.
Visit in the morning for the best light on the xistá patterns. The village is entirely pedestrianised — leave your car at the free car park on the outskirts. Try the local mastiha (mastic liqueur) at the square. The village festival in mid-August fills the streets with music and local food.
Pyrgi blew my mind. The xistá patterns cover every single building — it feels like walking inside a black-and-white tapestry. Unmissable. Also buy some mastiha gum and liqueur — completely unique to Chios.
Hayatımda böyle bir yer görmedim. Her bina geometrik desenlerle kaplı. Mastika ürünleri de çok güzel — likörü ve sakızı mutlaka alın. Çeşme'den feribotla geldik, kesinlikle değdi.